A Travellerspoint blog

Whimpers in Savuti Marsh: Painted dog's silent struggles

A female moves its den throwing the pack into panic-Botswana -Ramdas Iyer

large_2ec6f760-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
During a recent three-week journey through Botswana’s iconic wilderness—spanning the Okavango Delta, Moremi Reserve, and Chobe National Park—I spent several days exploring the hauntingly beautiful Savuti Marsh and the adjoining Mababe Depression. These regions, shaped by the Okavango River as it spills into the dry Kalahari sands, offer a rare glimpse into nature’s annual rhythm. The eastern arm of the Delta flows through the Savuti marsh and ends in the Mababe Depression, a place where water meets wilderness in a quiet, dramatic finale.
Mobile camping in these remote lands was exhilarating. It granted me access to areas far removed from the well-trodden tourist paths.
large_3a538260-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
The Painted Dogs of Botswana
Among the many species that interest me is the African wild dog—also known as the painted dog—stands apart. These animals are not only visually striking but behaviorally extraordinary. They form deep social bonds, communicate with nuance, and exhibit a level of cooperation that rivals any mammalian society. Tragically, they are also among Africa’s most endangered carnivores, second only to the Ethiopian wolf continent-wide, and the most endangered in Southern Africa.
Once numbering half a million across Africa, their population has plummeted to around 6,600. Botswana, however, remains a sanctuary—home to over 30% of the continent’s wild dogs. Its central location links populations across five neighboring countries, making it a vital corridor for the species’ survival.

A Fourth Element: Trauma in the Wild
I write this not just to celebrate these animals, but to highlight something often overlooked: trauma. Safari guides often say animals live for three things—food, reproduction, and survival. But I have come to believe there is a fourth: the emotional toll of loss.
One cold July morning, my wife and I encountered a group of wild dogs curled together for warmth beside a dusty track. Respecting their rest, we returned later, only to find them gone. My guide, however, knew of a nearby den—a rare opportunity, as July marks the pupping season when packs remain anchored to a site. He promised me that we would see them later in the day near the den.
Wild dogs often repurpose abandoned dens—those of aardvarks or warthogs—modifying them to suit their needs. These dens are critical: they shelter vulnerable pups for the first three months of life and must be chosen with care. In regions like the Okavango Delta, where rocky terrain is scarce, packs prefer mopane woodlands, which lions tend to avoid. Still, the threat remains.
141ec730-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG30658c30-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
34e5e430-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG36bffb60-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
A Glimpse into Their World
That evening, we returned to the den and were greeted by a heartwarming scene: over a dozen pups tumbling in the sand, watched over by exhausted mothers. Some suckled, others played. A few adult dogs lingered nearby, while a Bataleur eagle and a tawny eagle perched patiently, hoping for scraps of regurgitated food. The regurgitation process is instinctual and serves as a key element of wild dog feeding behavior. Initially, the young pups are confined to the safety of their den, where they rely on their mother’s milk. As the weeks pass, they venture out and encounter the adults, tasting their first bites of meat, albeit in tiny amounts at two weeks old. The adults, while away on hunts, leave behind a babysitter to watch over the pups, and this adult also receives regurgitated food from the hunting party. Unfortunately, the pack we had seen had not returned from their hunt and we missed them that evening.
DSC_3628a.JPG0de8a8e0-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG

The next morning, the den was deserted. Lions had been spotted nearby, and the females had relocated their pups. Such moves are not uncommon. As pups grow, dens can become unsanitary, infested with parasites. More urgently, predators like lions pose an existential threat—any pup discovered is killed instantly.
We searched the area in our Land Cruiser, hoping to spot the new den. Returning to the original site, we witnessed the arrival of eight adults, their bellies full from a successful hunt. But their joy quickly turned into panic. They searched frantically for a couple of hours, whimpering softly, unable to find their young. The distress was palpable.
The Weight of Loss
For hours, the pack combed the area, returning repeatedly to the empty den. They consoled one another, regurgitating food for those who had searched farthest. It was a heartbreaking display of confusion, fear, and deep social connection.
We had to leave Savuti for Moremi that afternoon, our hearts heavy with uncertainty. Had the pups been found? Would they go hungry without the fresh kill?
My wife and I questioned our emotional response. Were we projecting human feelings onto wild animals? But science suggests we were not entirely wrong.
large_0c9e4e90-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
0b7d0010-7d5c-11f0-b171-8fec2b31aa41.JPG25f45c40-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
Trauma in the Animal Kingdom
Since the 1990s, researchers have explored the “ecology of fear”—the idea that trauma in animals is not fleeting but profound. Early studies assumed that surviving a predator attack left no lasting impact. But we now know that animals, like humans, carry emotional scars.
Wildlife trauma has been most dramatically observed in African elephants. Decades of poaching and habitat loss have shattered their social structures. Orphaned elephants, having witnessed the slaughter of their families, often grow into troubled adolescents, lacking the guidance of elder matriarchs.
The brain circuitry responsible for fear and memory—centered in the amygdala—is ancient and shared across species. Whether it is a snowshoe hare evading a lynx or a human recovering from a car crash, the responses are strikingly similar. PTSD in humans arises from the same primal systems that keep prey animals vigilant.

Watching the wild dogs that day, I saw more than instinct—I saw grief, confusion, and resilience. Their trauma was real, and it reminded me that the emotional lives of animals are deeper than we often acknowledge.
We left the Delta changed. Not just by its beauty, but by the silent stories unfolding in its shadows.

The End
Ramdas Iyer can be reached at [email protected]
References
• Sharon Levy, BBC Features Correspondent-Do animals suffer from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder
• Rudy Boonstra, University of Toronto

Gallery of relevant images
large_6042f730-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_4e7a0c50-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_4c78e520-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_3422bb40-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_4167f2c0-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_37a10c90-7d5c-11f0-9541-056095e8b9b1.JPG
large_0b72c6e0-7d5c-11f0-acf1-657a2df5709e.JPG

Posted by Ramdas Iyer 14:15 Archived in Botswana Tagged painted ramdas iyer savuti dog-african wilddog-botswana ptsd mababe

Table of contents

Comments

I appreciate and respect your Compassion for all of life.

by Mark Riesenberg

Comments on this blog entry are now closed to non-Travellerspoint members. You can still leave a comment if you are a member of Travellerspoint.

Login